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The Wall Street Journal reported yesterday that packaged foods are increasingly loaded with cellulose, a food additive made from wood pulp and plant fibers that lends a creamy texture to low-fat foods and contributes dietary fiber to white breads (as cooking with ground up wood does). Our initial reaction is plainly summed up by the acronym “WTF,” but on second thought, we wonder: Is cellulose really that bad? The short answer is “probably,” but the long answer is that plant fibers are far from the worst thing lurking in processed foods, and we need more information than “there’s wood pulp in your ice cream!” to determine whether this is just another attention-grabbing health scare.
Here’s the low-down on cellulose, according to the WSJ:
- “Powdered cellulose is made by cooking raw plant fiber—usually wood—in various chemicals to separate the cellulose, and then purified. Modified versions go through extra processing, such as exposing them to acid to further break down the fiber.”
- “Cellulose additives belong to a family of substances known as hydrocolloids that act in various ways with water, such as creating gels.”
- “The rising cost of raw materials like flour, sugar and oil is helping boost the popularity of these additives.”
- Cellulose is even used in organic foods, like yogurt, but “only powdered cellulose in its least manipulated form can be used in foods labeled “organic” or “made with organic” ingredients by the U.S. Department of Agriculture.”
- “Nutritionists say cellulose—which gives plants their structure—is a harmless fiber that can often cut calories in food. Insoluble dietary fibers like cellulose aren’t digestible by humans so add bulk to food without making it more fattening.”
Do we believe those nutritionists? Unfortunately, nutrition is one of those grey areas where “expert advice” isn’t always a simple solution to debate. There are plenty of researchers and nutritionists who work for large food corporations who have several interests in mind — not least of which is the company’s bottom line. Plus, the last time we checked, approval from the USDA and FDA was another signifier that didn’t (and unfortunately, approval from the USDA and FDA is equally fraught with conflicting interests; it’s hardly an indication of a food’s nutritional value).
But on the other hand, I add ground up plants to my food all the time: I blend kale into my smoothies, I take fiber supplements and vitamins, and I use ground flaxseed in my baking. And while it’s much more commonplace than wood, white flour doesn’t strike me as all that different than cellulose, when you think about it: It’s just another plant that’s been ground up and processed to the point of being workable in recipes (and according to growing numbers of nutritionists and doctors, it’s not necessarily doing our bodies much good).
So should we freak out about cellulose? I actually don’t think it’s that big of a deal. If you’re eating processed foods, you should assume there are weird ingredients lurking in them that may or may not sit well with your system; the alternative is that you avoid that stuff and choose which things — good and bad — you want to eat for yourself. But in the meantime, if you need a way to conquer your cravings for ice cream, just think about all the wood pulp that makes it taste so creamy.
